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We had just reached Emerald Bay when a stranger on our cruise boat gasped: “It never gets old.” 

The “it” in this instance was the view along Lake Tahoe’s southwest shore. Shimmering water, all green, crystal clear and pure, as the relentless midday Nevada desert sun lit up the mountain-range backdrop, its glacier-polished rock and coniferous trees completing the postcard.  

If our lungs had already tightened thanks to being more than 1,800 metres above sea level, this view would momentarily take our remaining breaths. As our paddlewheel vessel passed Fannette Island and its stone-structure teahouse, the boatload of beauty before us was truly that inspiring. 

The stunning scenery never gets old here and everywhere else in this road-trip-ready Nevada region straddling the California border.  

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Those who drive the 233-km Reno-to-Lake Tahoe loop can take in 360 degrees of nature accessible through hotel and restaurant windows, roadside lookouts and by staring straight ahead. 

There’s a reason some 15 million visitors come to what’s known as the “Jewel of the Sierra Nevada” each year. Ski resorts circle the alpine lake, which is so deep it never freezes, and beaches dot the shoreline. For outdoor enthusiasts, it’s an all-seasons heaven on earth, including in fall when the crowds thin out and leaves on the aspens burst with colour. 

There’s more than the big pond and peaks in this part of the Silver State. Indulge in top-notch dining and entertainment, explore Wild West mining towns accessed by steam train, and marvel at more transportation at the National Automobile Museum back in Reno.  

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It’s legal to gamble in Nevada, of course — there seems to be as many casinos and gaming rooms as iconic Jeffrey Pines in these parts. Any visitor will hit lucky sevens simply by being on and around Lake Tahoe, a lake that looks great from a distance, even better up close and best from directly on top. 

Here’s the scoop on the Reno-to-Lake Tahoe loop: 

THE BIGGEST LITTLE CITY 

Known by many as the original Las Vegas, Reno boasts something that Sin City doesn’t: Easy access to Lake Tahoe and its surrounding adventure hotspots. Before departing for nearby Tahoe, make some time for the “Biggest Little City in the World,” including the National Automobile Museum. The top-rated museum boasts more than 240 vehicles, most from the collection of the late casino magnate Bill Harrah. Vehicles from the turn of the 19th century and onward are featured, including an 1892 Phillion, the only Adams-Farwell ever made, the Thomas Flyer that won the 1908 New York-to-Paris race, and the 1973 Cadillac Elvis Presley’s dad gave him.  

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The museum is far from being a car graveyard — a new exhibit opens every 60-90 days, museum president and executive director Phil MacDougall notes. For a Canadian connection, look for the 1924 Brooks Steamer, manufactured in Stratford, Ont. 

The dining in Reno is no gamble — everything we tried was a winner. Grab lunch at the Wild River Grille along the downtown Riverwalk District, then dinner on the opposite side of the Truckee River at Smith and River. Order the cacio e pepe and the winter kale salad (both made tableside) and thank us later. Start any day with made-from-scratch biscuits at Pine State Biscuits. It’s a true American breakfast.  

After exploring the neighbouring casinos and entertainment venues, rest up at the Whitney Peak Hotel Reno. The non-gaming property is next to the famous arch and home to a 7,000-square-foot indoor bouldering park and outdoor climbing wall. 

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The city’s Neon Line District has public art and murals reflecting Reno’s history while the Reno Public Market has a selection of crafts and eats including a tasty lomo saltado dish at Cuzco Peruvian restaurant.  

We assumed the locals were celebrating our arrival in town. Turns out they were gathered for the annual Great Italian Festival, which celebrated its 42nd year in downtown Reno. 

LODES OF FUN 

Silver comes after gold and it was Virginia City that was born out of the Comstock Lode, the first major discovery of silver ore in the U.S., some 10 years after the California gold rush of 1949. Named after American miner Henry Comstock, the Big Bonanza brought immense wealth to the area and led to what was once thought to be the most profitable railroad in the world.  

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Today, visitors can party like it’s 1869 by riding those same rails into Virginia City on a 110-year-old steam-powered locomotive operated by V&T Railway to check out the preserved Old West saloons and shops on C Street, regularly named among the top historic main streets in the U.S.   

Enjoy the scenic train ride (and watch for wild horses along the way) before seeking out paranormal activity in town with a ghost tour inside the Washoe Club, said to be one of the most haunted locations in the West. Ghost-hunting shows have regularly filmed episodes inside the Douglas Building, home to the Millionaires Club, which included such notables as author Mark Twain and inventor Thomas Edison.  

We caught the barbecue spirit down the boardwalk at Virginia City Jerky & Smokehouse BBQ where we enjoyed a devilishly good beef tri-tip sandwich before washing it down with a root beer and black cherry ice cream float at the Firehouse Grill and Ice Cream Parlour. 

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Don’t leave town without stepping your spurred boots into the Bucket of Blood Saloon, built after the town’s great fire of 1875. Enjoy expansive views of the valley here through the big picture window but the real fun is feeling the breeze back on the steam train while travelling through the darkness of several tunnels just as the prospectors of the day did. 

Nearby Carson City — the capital city of Nevada — is known for its hot springs (Nevada is home to the most natural hot springs of any state). The development of hot springs in Carson City coincided with the Silver State’s mining boom. Today’s visitors to the capital can vie for the Carson City Triathlon, requiring guests to drink, dine and dip all on location for the chance at a free T-shirt.  

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Blink but don’t miss Genoa, the oldest permanent settlement in Nevada, and be sure to drop in for a tipple at the Genoa Bar & Saloon. It opened in 1853 and is the state’s oldest thirst parlour. 

SOUTH-SIDE SOJOURN 

Departing from Zephyr Cove on Lake Tahoe’s southeast shore, the M.S. Dixie II Emerald Bay scenic cruise is the easiest way to get out onto the water, which we recommend everyone does during a visit to North America’s largest alpine lake — 500 metres deep, 35-km long, 19-km wide and boasting 120 km of shoreline. After all, the best place to be when visiting the lake is on the lake.  

Once aboard, learn about the Lake of the Sky’s purity (99.994% pure, making it among the world’s purest lakes), its history (explorer John C. Fremont first laid eyes on it in 1844) and its residents (Lora Josephine Knight, a philanthropist from California, built her Scandinavian-styled summer home Vikingsholm Castle in 1929 along with her tea house on nearby Fannette Island in Emerald Bay State Park). 

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When the sun is shining and the clouds are blue, it’s tough to imagine a more enjoyable way to spend a day than on this nearly 2.5-hour narrated boat tour. Lunch, snacks and drinks can be purchased aboard the paddle-wheeler. 

Consider a stay at Harveys Lake Tahoe Hotel & Casino in Stateline, which borders Nevada and California. The first casino hotel built on the south shore offers fantastic views of Lake Tahoe and the Sierra Nevada. 

Fuel up with breakfast at the American River Cafe at Harrah’s Lake Tahoe, which is connected to Harveys. Head out for a day of sun-filled activity, then return for a memorable dinner at Gordon Ramsay Hell’s Kitchen inside Harveys. We’re still dreaming about that lobster risotto, beef wellington and sticky toffee pudding. Lisa Vanderpump’s Insta-worthy Wolf by Vanderpump restaurant is next door. 

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NORTHERN REFLECTIONS 

While the south side of Lake Tahoe is known for being busier and the place to party, the north side is its opposite, sleepier and more laid-back.  

Our two nights at the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe Resort in Incline Village were pure bliss, complete with surreal views from our room and fitting northern vibes.  

There wouldn’t be a need to leave the Hyatt property’s serene environment, but the payoff is the surrounding natural splendour. Those who sign up for a kayak tour departing Sand Harbor State Park with Clearly Tahoe will get up close to one of the area’s landmarks, Bonsai Rock, a large boulder with four small trees growing out of a crevice at the top. Kayakers experience visibility up to 23 metres below the surface through transparent watercraft. Our Clearly Tahoe guide said the company’s aim is to make this tour the best thing anyone does while visiting Lake Tahoe, and my wife gave two paddles up in agreement.  

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For something that might also top the activity podium, bike the Tahoe East Shore Trail. Opened in 2019, the nearly 5-km paved trail system connects Incline Village south to Sand Harbor, with seriously epic views. We rented e-bikes from Flume Trail Mountain Bikes and can report that the “turbo” speed does come in handy on steep inclines in high elevation. The views all along the Tahoe East Shore Trail are incredible and we can’t imagine a more scenic yet accessible bike trail in North America. Grab lunch at the on-site Tunnel Creek Cafe before heading out.  

After burning some calories, enjoy a rewarding dinner at the Lone Eagle Grille. It’s the highest grossing restaurant of Hyatt’s North American properties and has cozy ski lodge vibes. Diners can feast on high-Sierra cuisine such as steaks and game meats, including the bison I enjoyed while seated steps from the hotel’s private beachfront. 

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For another option, American tapas such as sirloin sliders and possibly the greatest butter-lettuce salad on earth can be had at Bite restaurant in Incline Village while FUMO Cafe and Hyatt’s resort restaurant Osteria Sierra are a few of the breakfast options in town.  

Incline Village will be recognizable to a certain vintage as being the site of the Ponderosa Ranch of TV’s Bonanza fame. Here’s hoping this perfect little place is one day recognizable as the retirement home of a former Toronto Sun travel writer.  

To learn more about Nevada, visit travelnevada.com. 

For more information on Lake Tahoe, go to visitlaketahoe.com. 

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HOW WE GOT THERE 

We flew from Toronto Pearson International Airport with United, connecting through Denver on the way and San Francisco upon return, and rented a vehicle with Enterprise. 

TAHOE TIDBITS 

— Third deepest lake in North America and 10th deepest in the world.
— Deepest point is 500 metres near Crystal Bay. Average depth is 273 metres.
— Located on the border of California and Nevada. About two-thirds of the lake is in California, about one-third extends into Nevada at the north and south ends of the lake, and the entire eastern shore.
— Gaming is legal in South Lake Tahoe, an area that includes both states.
Source: visitlaketahoe.com 

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